"The celebratory [ethnic Albanian] sedans are passing through the Macedonian part of town, which might be seen as provocative taunting."Some fascinating perspective on
Kosovo's independence as seen on the ground from our man in neighboring Macedonia:
"Teaching High School Enlish in Balkans is more fun when ethnocentrism and geopolitics stays out of the way...Today, Kosovo has declared its independence and the Albanians here in my Macedonian town are in turns jubilant, ecstatic, humbly proud, and smug. It makes no difference that everyone in town --Macedonian, Serbian, or Albanian -- is a Macedonian citizen; if you're an Albanian today is terrific and if you're a Slav it isn't. We're quite close to the Kosovo border, and the tension definitely spills over, as it has for years now.
"In the past 10 years, Macedonia has only narrowly avoided civil war, relying on UN soldiers to calm a 2001 conflict. Hotheads in the Macedonian majority accuse the Albanians of being mafia-prone or scheming to break away and form an oxymoronic "Greater Albania." Both sides deface the others' houses of worship. (Between all the nationalism and religion, you'd think they'd overdose on dogmatism.) Things have been better recently, but many people fear that Kosovo's independence will turn quiet prejudices into familiar violence. As Mirjana, my teaching counterpart tells me, "I don't know what to say except may God save us. I'm a bit scared, you know." Then again, Mirjana is an very jittery and diffident woman; I'd expect her to say something like that.
I'm hoping that the people in my unhappy little Macedonian town will conclude that Kosovo is not worth fighting about this time around. With an unemployment rate of ~35% and shambolic public services, this point should be obvious. There's no shortage of humane, intelligent, thoughtful people here, but the crazies of recent conflicts don't seem to have gone away, either. Albanian celebrations are planned in the town center tonight...I'm hoping that they're tasteful and reconciliatory and muted..."
"We saw a shabby cavalcade of 9 cars, each packed with intense-looking young men, making rotations around the block, drivers shouting and honking and waving flags. (The US is likely to be one of the first to recognize Kosovo, so you see its flag, too)."* * *
For me, talk of Kosovo brings back a number of memories. Most vivid is the arrival of Antigona M, an ethnic Albanian Kosovar refugee, in my high school biology class during sophomore year. She had long, raven black hair and a reserved, haunted demeanor - you could tell she had witnessed some unspeakable things.
I was assigned to help her as best as I could to make sense of the class, which proved immensely difficult - she knew almost no English, and we struggled daily with an Albanian/English dictionary. At points, my attempts to convey biological concepts in stumbling language and harried page flipping made both of us laugh.
She was always trying to downplay her family's Muslim faith, talking only occasionally about their trips to a mosque in the Fox Valley, which must have seemed a difficult proposition to maintain in the Christian stronghold of eastern Wisconsin - and the fact that the local Catholic church was instrumental in helping them set up a new life in small town Kiel. The irony of the religious landscape in their sanctuary must had a rather dark tinge to it coming on the heels of the family's escape.
Antigona gradually adapted to her new environment - clearly divergent customs, norms, and even clothing styles had to be bridged. But she was always smart, despite being quiet. Last I heard, she was working as a successful hair stylist in Appleton. Sadly, her
younger brother recently passed away.Her father, I can still recall, would often drive his bicycle around town after the family's arrival, a small American flag fluttering off the back of the wire basket.
Labels: foreign affairs, Guest Blog, independence, Kiel, Kosovo, Macedonia, photos
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