"poured in an exuberant arc from a bottle held high above the shoulder into tumblers to create a burst of bubbles in the glass"

That would be Txakolina -- a white wine from Basque country:

"In San Sebastián, you wouldn’t believe how much Txakolina is drunk in the month of August alone," said Ignacio Ameztoi Aranguren, whose family’s winery, Ameztoi, is a leading Txakolina producer. "Here in Basque country, they drink it year-round. They drink it with meat, too. That’s the culture."